Learn to compensate for line stretch on the hookset--or choose a line that won't cave under pressure.
By Jeff Weakley,, Editor
How far your line stretches will determine how quickly you reach hook-setting drag pressure.
Lack of stretch is one of the benefits of fishing lines made from polyethylene fibers--such as Power Pro, FINS PRT and Spiderline. This enables an accelerated hookset when you feel a bite, which for fish that are quick to spit lures, can mean improved catches. Essentially, when you sweep your rodtip to set the hook, with poly lines you apply maximum drag pressure the instant you begin the stroke. With nylon monofilaments, as well as copolymers, fluorocarbons and hybrids, you probably won't reach that point until the end of the stroke--and maybe not even then.
I'll cover why that is in a minute, but first let's look at the significance of drag--or more specifically, strike drag.
Most anglers think of drag in terms of line breaking strength and how much pressure you can safely apply to bring a fish to the boat. But there's more to it than that.
Let's say you are fishing with a rod and reel rated for 8-pound-test line--meaning the reel has adequate capacity, and the rod suitable power and action, for that line. You are fishing with a bucktail jig that has a 1/0 hook. There's a minimum drag setting in this scenario that begs as much attention as the max, because in order to sink that 1/0 hook into the tough mouth of a snook, for instance, you'll need to apply a certain amount of drag pressure at just the right time.
Angling scholars long ago determined that between one-quarter and one-third of the line's breaking strength provides a cushion against breakoffs in the case of hard-running fish, the friction of rod guides and other factors. This is generally measured with the rod pointed right at a hand-scale. In the case of 8-pound line, thatÂ’s 2 to 3 pounds. Just so happens that 2 pounds is also sufficient to drive a small hookpoint home. Less than that will not barb that 1/0 jig into the back of your hand--much less a snook (no sense trying this yourself; as your devoted executive editor, I performed the test on my own hand for you). This is what I mean by strike drag.
Conversely, if you were to set the drag much higher--and with some of the over-test lines on the market you certainly could--at some point you'd skirt the threshold of pulled hooks and potential rod breakage. A lot of the poly lines on the market can withstand enough pressure to disintegrate a graphite rod. Your goal as an angler is to reach strike drag, with rod bent, drag washers slipping, and line running off the spool, at the optimal moment--which for most species is right now. With any amount of slack in stretchy line, you may heave as mightily as you can on the rod and only deliver tickle pressure to the other end. There are two solutions: One is to point the rod at the fish and reel up until the drag slips, then sweep the rod and apply the added friction of the guides. The other is to find a line that doesn't stretch, saving you microseconds that can mean the difference.
Recently I put several lines through a stretch test. There have been other tests performed to document line and knot strength, but to my knowledge none that have looked at how far a given line will stretch before it reaches a particular drag setting. What I found was fascinating. I chose 8-pound test, or lines of comparable diameter (roughly .010 inches). I tied 50-foot sections of line to a fixed point, took up the slack, then pulled each line along a tape measure with a hand scale. I marked the added distance at 2 pounds of pressure, 4 pounds of pressure, and the breaking point. All the lines stretched--even the "no-stretch" lines. But some stretched a lot farther than others. I also tried soaking the lines in water for an hour and repeated the test. For most, this meant even more stretch. Others, curiously enough, actually stretched less after soaking.
I made two attempts at each pressure point with a line sample, to reflect the tendency for line to stretch and "memorize" its new length. Here's what I found:
For standard monofilaments, the differences were so slim that they really don't bear mentioning by brand. In general, my test showed that 50 feet of dry monofilament--even some brands labeled as extra tough--will stretch between 3 1/2 and 5 feet at 2 pounds of drag; 4 1/2 and 6 feet at 4 pounds of drag; and 8 and 12 feet at break point. Wet mono stretched about another foot for each pressure point. This is significant because it shows that sweeping the rodtip, even against a seemingly tight line, will not apply strike drag. You still have 10 percent to recover until the drag begins slipping. If there is any slack in the line, the results will be even worse: The fish bites, you attempt to set the hook, and the fish either spits out the offending lure or the hook just falls out on its own. The hybrid lines, which blend mono and fluorocarbon, did not show appreciable decrease in stretch, landing squarely in the range of standard mono. All-fluorocarbon lines actually stretched more--but tended to hold the new length after the first pull. Only one fluoro line, Stren Fluorocarbon, stretched comparably with the monos. One fluoro brand took 8 feet to reach 2 pound, and 12 to reach break point.
The test involved pulling 50-foot samples of lines (dry & wet) across a tape measure to see how far each would stretch at various drag settings.
One of the advertised claims for fluoros and fluoro-mono hybrids is that the lines don't hold water, and thus don't stretch more when wet. This claim held water. The Stren line, bizarrely, stretched even less when wet--though only a tiny bit less, certainly not statistically relevant. So it seems that fluoro coatings do in fact reduce the tendency for a line to absorb water. You'll have to form you own conclusions about other aspects of the new fluoro lines; I've had some favorable experience with hybrids on the water, but not much time with all fluoro. The poly lines performed as expected. I tested two braids and one fusion product, and all were within 3 to 6 inches at 2 and 4 pounds of drag, breaking after about a foot of stretch. Knot failure saw the lines break below labeled test; to maintain the breaking strength, a double line can be used--though as already mentioned, 20 pounds of pressure will destroy most light tackle rods. There are well-known drawbacks to the poly lines. Mono stretches because it's elastic--and this same quality helps to keep it from tangling. Poly lines are limp, but coils flying off a spool have a tendency to stay together if they cross paths. Hence, there are occasional wind knots that are a pain in the neck to remedy. A certain amount of spring is also desirable for knot strength, and in some situations for shock absorption.
My own observations after playing with these lines for a few years are such: For jigging, where you often run into strikes on a slack line, the poly lines excel. When you detect the strike, you can set the hook without delay. I've found this can also be a deciding factor when fishing around structure. On light line, you may have only one chance to turn a big sheepshead or snook.
However, for plug fishing or when targeting any fish that jumps a good deal (tarpon, for example), I still prefer monofilament. Treble hooks don't require much pressure to take hold--and in fact a lot of hooksets are in soft tissue outside the mouth, which is easily torn by low-stretch lines (a judicious bow here and there, or a lighter-action rod, can help). The hybrid mono-fluoro lines seem to be a good compromise, stretching a bit less than mono after some time in the water.
There are other considerations when choosing a line, but when it comes to the moment of truth, how fast you are to the punch may be the deciding factor in whether you stay in the fight.
