Stripers are duped by a Slug-Go’s real eel appeal.
By Jim White
Assortment of Slug-Gos rigged for presentations from top to bottom and inbetween. Eyes lend realism.
Whenever I break out a big jerkbait, without fail, my fishing partner or customer always asks, “Isn’t this thing sort of on the big side?”
Not to stripers in the spring and early summer, I tell them. But the proof is in the catching, as they quickly find out. Sizeable stripers have no problem taking a big bait.
The huge piece of soft plastic I turn to is the 9-inch Slug-Go, manufactured by Lunker City Lures. This is a super-sized version of the original 6-inch freshwater model that started the soft-plastic, stickbait craze around 1990.
I was surprised to learn that the prototype of the Slug-Go was actually a lure carved from wood. Over time, it evolved into a soft-plastic bait that took the freshwater fishing community by storm. This big soft-plastic can be fished on or just below the surface, rigged weedless, or can be weighted for deeper work. When a fish hits it, it usually holds on to it just a bit longer than it would a hard bait, giving the angler an extra second or two to set the hook.
These baits look like eels, but in light colors are good impressionistic batifish imitation.
Shortly after the Slug-Go’s introduction, inventor and avid bass fisherman Herb Reed decided to make a larger 9-inch version for salt water. The lure’s initial introduction to salt water was not met with the enthusiasm that freshwater anglers had for the small baits. The big model was, however, effective for freshwater anglers who fished for landlocked striped bass in big southern impoundments. These baits are good imitations of eels, obviously, but in light colors, are also good impressionistic artificials for stripers dining on big threadfin shad and other large baitfish. To my knowledge, there are no other soft baits as big as the 9-inch Slug-Go, though there are numerous brands of soft baits in the 5- to 7-inch class.
Fish-catching Alterations
There are many ways to make this lure even better for stripers and other inshore saltwater gamefish. One of the first things you can do is add a bit of realism by attaching eyes to the lure. Some experts are convinced that predatory fish target the eye of a baitfish. There is a wide array of artificial eyes available—I like the larger size plastic doll eyes available in craft shops. They come with pupils that move and they rattle, giving you the added advantage of sound as well. Fly fishermen are well aware of the effectiveness of adding eyes to their flies. Many of the eyes used by fly tyers can be used on soft plastics as well. The 3-D models in the larger sizes are excellent choices, as are the eyes with a prism finish. Some eyes come with a sticky back to press onto a firm surface. When attaching them to soft plastics I prefer to glue them on because they hold better. You can use ordinary model glue, and it’s a good idea to use an accelerator spray to quickly dry the glue firm once it has been applied. This stuff is fast and strong and works in seconds. There is also a product called Pro Soft Glue that was specifically developed for use on soft-plastic lures. It also sets up very quickly and is super strong.
Smaller striper with a big appetite.
Rigging Methods
I use three rigging methods primarily. Though many of these baits come with hooks included in the package, I prefer to rig with a 7/0 to 9/0 Limerick hook with an offset bend and point. This rig produces an excellent hookup percentage.
The second option is rigging with a single 7/0 to 9/0 O’Shaughnessy hook, placed in the head of the bait. I happen to like the Matzuo black chrome hooks; they are very strong, super sharp and reasonably priced. I have never had one break or bend on a big bass.
The third method of rigging is via the double-hook rig. This is similar to rigging a dead eel to cast or troll. Take a smaller 2/0 or 3/0 hook and tie a length of Dacron line to it. Next, get a rigging needle and carefully push the needle through the center of the Slug-Go with the line in the needle’s eye. Go through the body and out the top of the head, getting as close to dead center as possible. Pull the remaining line through the head along with the needle. Next, work an 8/0 or 9/0 hook into the head to just beyond the bend of the hook. Now wrap the hook shank from that point on right up to the hook’s eye and tie it off. I use a fly-tying bobbin and fly-tying thread to finish it off. Push the hook the rest of the way into the lure, making sure that is sits straight on the hook shank. The rig is now done.
