Shallow Water Angler
 
advertisement
 
You Are Here: HOME >> Gear & How-To >> Creek Fishing Techniques
> Flyfishing for Whatever Bites
> A Clean Fishing Machine
> New Marine Batteries
> Spotted Seatrout Techniques
> Ramp It Right
 
North American Whitetail
A magazine designed for the serious trophy-deer hunter. [+] Visit
 
Shallow Water Angler
The nation's only publication dedicated to inshore fishing, covering waters from Texas to Maine. [+] Visit
 
Guns & Ammo
The preeminent firearms magazine: Hunting, shooting, cowboy action, reviews, technical material and more. [+] Visit
from Shallow Water Angler
Auguest/September 2007

Creek Fishing Techniques
Overlooked tributaries can spell fast, predictable action for those who can read a creek.

By Chris Christian

From the open water, a slight break in the shoreline may look insignificant at first. But, pass it by and you may miss out on some serious shallow-water action.

From the Delmarva Peninsula in the Northeast U.S. to the tip of Florida, all the way to the Tex-Mex border, virtually every bay, estuary and lagoon system is fed by tributaries. Some are major rivers in their own right and are, in turn, fed by many smaller creeks. Others start as a narrow trickle of fresh water at the back end of a marsh and widen and turn brackish as they meet the coast. Some may actually be true “tidal ditches” that draw all of their water from the tides.

Regardless of their size and make up, all are key components to that eco system. They provide shelter for juvenile fish (both forage and predator species), along with crustaceans. Some can become a thermal refuge during extremes of heat and cold if they are fed by any springs. In many cases, however, they are also superb feeding areas because the right tidal creek can often boast a wider variety of forage than more open waters. And, in the confined creek waters it’s a heckuva lot easier for a predator to catch a meal.


continue article
 
 

Just which gamefish species will seek out creeks can vary by locale and season. In the Southeast, however, you can figure that redfish, spotted seatrout and flounder will be regular creek dwellers. Elsewhere, bluefish, striped bass, snook, tarpon, black drum, mangrove snapper, jack crevalle, ladyfish, and even some species of grouper might thrive. Getting in on that action requires you to:

Pick the Proper Creek

Any ditch that connects to a larger water body and even occasionally holds water can, at times, hold fish. But the most consistently productive will be those tributaries that provide the three key factors that any gamefish requires: depth, cover and food. The easiest way to determine if a creek provides them is to explore it at the lower end of the tide.

If you idle into a creek at dead low tide and travel several hundred yards through three feet of water over a mud bottom, you’ll get bored and leave. So will most adult gamefish.

The best tributaries have one or more significant holes near their mouth that hold at least five to six feet of water at low tide. That provides sanctuary for fish going in and out. If the creek has deeper holes in the upper reaches, fish will use those as well. But, without some deeper low tide water at the mouth, fish may never find those upper creek holes.

Cover, as it regards to creeks, is a subjective term and normally equates to some object that can provide an ambush feeder with an ambush spot. That basically means some form of structure. If a creek runs straight as an arrow, with a uniform low tide depth of six feet, and has nothing but bankside Spartina grass on the edges to contrast with a smooth bottom, there is very little cover for fish. It’s not likely to hold predators on a consistent basis. But, add a few bends (with a deeper outside edge and a tapering submerged point on the inside), some intersecting tidal creeks, fallen timber on the banks, or better yet, the mangroves that often line creeks in Southern latitudes, or even some man-made structures like docks, and that creek is looking up.

Small tributaries are ideal ambush points. The angler casts into this runout at high tide.
When the tide falls, and bottoms out, expect fish and bait to be just outside the mouth.

If you can mix in some oyster or rock, you have a real winner. Hard, submerged cover provides both current breaks and ambush points, and also serves as an anchor for a food chain.

Savvy anglers pay particular attention to oyster location and how it lays out in relation to water depth. Some oyster may only be fully covered for a relatively small portion of a tide. But, it might be one of the most productive spots in the creek during that time.

The same holds true for any bankside indentation that forms a shallow bay on high water (especially if it is adjacent to a deeper hole) and anywhere two creeks merge to form a Y junction—particularly if there is a deeper section with submerged oyster humps at the junction.

The last key factor is food, and if the creek has rock or oyster it will likely have crustaceans that will draw drum. If you don’t see baitfish on the low tide, however, you may not have a significant number of other species. Finfish predators will follow their groceries, and if that creek isn’t holding baitfish while a nearby creek is, the creek with the bait is usually the better bet.

If the creek looks good, the next step to success is:

Timing the Tides

There is a rhythm to any creek and it is largely determined by the tidal flow. Fish will move surprisingly long distances with the tide, but can often be found in the same places during the same tide stage on subsequent days. How long a particular structure will remain a “hotspot” depends on how fast the water is moving, and more importantly, how fast the bait is moving.

On my home waters of Northeast Florida, tides in the 4.5- to 5.5-foot range are the norm, and often run higher than that. With four tides a day that’s fast-moving water and some rapid depth changes. There are spots that boil with fish on a particular tide stage, but it may only last 30 to 45 minutes. After that the fish move on and you had better follow.

On the Gulf Coast, tides are not as extreme. Some areas seldom see more than three feet, while others get half that. The fish will still move with the tide, but they do it at the slower tidal pace and a particular spot may remain productive for a longer period of time.

Veteran anglers know that when they find creek fish it’s worth noting the exact tide stage where they found them, because they can often count on finding them there again on that same tide stage. A good place to start is:

At The Bottom

Dead low tide will see most of the gamefish in the creek in, or around, deeper holes that remain. There will also be fish in the main water body ready to move into the creek on the flood tide. That makes the deeper holes near the mouth a logical place to start, since they’ll hold resident fish as well as those just visiting.

Not all species may bite well on low, slack water. However, if flounder, redfish and black drum are the target, concentrate on the edges of any submerged oyster in the hole. They will hit, and low slack can be an excellent time to find them.

As the tide turns to flood and baitfish begin to move, there is often a flurry of feeding activity centered around the deeper creek holes. Depending upon the tidal speed it may be brief, but time it right and you may enjoy fast action. As rising water begins to scatter bait, fish will fan out from the holes to follow it. The mid-portions of the flood tide can be one of the tougher times to fish a creek because there isn’t yet enough water to position fish on easily identifiable bankside ambush points, but more than enough to free them from the holes. They will be moving, pausing at key feeding spots, before moving again. This is where low-tide exploration can pay off handsomely.

Any spot where baitfish are swept from open water, compressed over a hard shallower bottom, and then emerge again to deeper water, can be a prime rising tide feeding spot for many species. They’ll be waiting on the downcurrent side of the compression spot, which could be a sandbar coming off an inside bend, a mid-creek oyster hump or bar, rock clusters, or just a sudden rise in the mid-creek bottom. These are not hard to find at low water. One drawback is that fish may not have yet arrived, or may have already moved on. But if you’ll note the tide stage on which you’ve found fish on these spots on previous trips, it’s not hard to set up a “milk run.”

Another option—and a very effective one—is to simply slow troll a plastic jig, or hard-plastic minnow lure, up the center of the creek with the tide. This technique can quickly cover a lot of water to find fish, and once found, you simply stop and cast the area.

Once the water fills the creek, fish have the maximum amount of room to scatter. But, this can also be a top time to fish a creek because certain key areas will draw them, and these are also easy to find on low water.

There are several specific cover situations that are top bets at the top of the tide. One is a grass edge along a steep drop—especially on an outside bend. Even better is where a shallow bank indentation that only holds water at high tide connects to that sharp drop. Big trout (and redfish) will push into it when the water allows. As well, don’t overlook shoreline oyster mounds or rock clusters, rock break walls, mangrove edges or any other cover situation that allows a predator to trap prey against a hard object. Fish will push as shallow as they can on high water; sometimes out of the reach of anglers. When the tide turns, however, you will find that:

Falling Water Equals Faster Fishing

The most productive time to fish a creek is generally during the mid-to-lower part of the ebb tide. When the water drops, baitfish can’t hide and are funneled back to the main creek.

The key word is “funneled,” and you need to locate those specific spots where current is forcing bait to the fish. One of the best is the mouth of an intersecting tide creek, but not all will be productive at the same stage of the tide. The determining factor is how quickly the dropping water moves baitfish from that creek. A shallow ditch that empties during the first two hours of the ebb won’t be worth fishing after that. A deeper tributary may require several hours of falling water to force the bait out and could be at its best on the mid or lower end of the tide. Gamefish will hit the mouth of a creek at the peak time and move to another when it’s over.

Compression areas can be hotspots on the ebb or the flood. But, because of the way the current sweeps over the structure, a specific spot may be better on one tide or the other.

One structure that is invariably worth fishing on the late ebb tide stage is anywhere two creeks meet to form a Y-junction, especially if there is a deeper hole at the junction, or within a hundred or so yards downcurrent of it. This is a major funnel and if some deeper water (five to six feet) is at hand, many fish may end the tide there.

It’s not hard to develop creek smarts. It’s just a matter of reading the terrain to determine when forage and predator are forced to meet, and then noting what stage of the tide they do. Once you do that, creeks can provide some of the most predictable action in your area. SWA

Smart Creek Baits

Standard inshore lures (like topwater plugs, jerkbaits and soft-plastic jigs) are very effective in creeks. But, if you spend a lot of time in the tributaries there are two “less than standard” lures you will want to have on hand. One is a shallow-running, square-lipped crankbait like the Rapala Shallow Shad Rap, Mann’s Minus-1, Storm Subwort, Bomber Square A and others. These floater-divers won’t run deeper than three feet and are easy to make run shallower. Their square lip lets them pick their way over virtually any oyster or rock that would eat more conventional lures, and if they do hang up, throwing some slack in the line allows them to float free, and you can then continue the retrieve. They will look like the scuttling crab the gamefish are there to feed on. Color patterns in red-and-brown and green-and-brown are deadly on reds.

The other is a saltwater-grade safety-pin spinnerbait like the Strike King Redfish Magic, Bass Assassin Red Daddy, Cajun Thunder Thunderspin and others. When high water floods shoreline grass and fallen timber, these baits are weedless enough to work through it to the fish.

Although they were originally marketed as redfish lures, any fish that will hit a jig will hit these. In fact, when I first began using them the first five fish I caught were bank-hugging flounder.

SWA

 
SUBSCRIBE NOW


RESOURCES
 

 
 
[FEATURED TITLE]
Florida Sportsman Florida Sportsman
Biggest, Best Boating, Fishing, Outdoors Coverage

> Go to the Website
> Subscribe to the magazine

[Recent Features]
>> From Cero To Spanish In 60 Seconds
>> Table Toppin'
>> Hit A Triple
>> Running With The Bulls
[ALL TITLES]